Pro Tips

FIG8OUT’s

PRO TIPS

Collection of bits and pieces that you my find interesting / useful

The Art of Making it Look Easy

When we hear about hyperfocus, it is often described as an extreme form of attention given to something, at the expense of anything else.

Conversely, business and well-being gurus are producing huge amounts of content with tips and advice on how to access “flow” as a positive state of mind - creating success and wellbeing. Whatever trend we choose to listen, it seems there’s common ground in believing there are moments when all our mind resources are focused on a single job and that feels pretty awesome.

Training with

ADHD

Embarking on any training programme is a challenge that requires much commitment, focus and patience. This is particularly difficult for some athletes with Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder.

It is important for the coach and the athlete to co-create a strong and honest relationship, with clear goals and a mutually beneficial agreement. With ADHD, it is fundamental to have also an understanding of working styles, specific needs, triggers, rewards and motivation.

The list here is for reference purposes only. Every presentation is different, so the individual training plan must be co-created with the athlete’s input and agreement.

Don’t skip the warm up!
Prepare a plan B(oring) & C(hallenging) for each session
If after 5 attempts you’re not making progress, go back to that climb another day
Think about ‘active resting’ activities you might enjoy (ie fidget toys, quick gaming, cycling…)
A non-linear plan might be a better idea when you start training, as it’s open to experimentation
Leave the gym by your own means, not on a stretcher! There’s always tomorrow to come back and do one more rep or set!
You might benefit from dividing your workout into smaller chunks throughout the day, just make sure not to exercise too much before bedtime!

STRENGTH TRAINING FOR YOUNG CLIMBERS?

Yes, totally. The Youth Physical Model by Rhodri Lloyd and Jon Oliver from Cardiff University, is a good way to start thinking about working with someone on a long-term basis. Also interesting for parents supporting young athletes on a performance pathway.

Check it out

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Single On-Demand SessionSingle-Session Coaching = maximise your interventions

The Single Session model, described by Windy Dryden on their book, is an excellent approach to maximise the potential to problem-solve and tackling problems on each session.

When time and resources are scarce, this approach allows for a mutual agreement of the purpose, goal and outcome of each session. For me, it helps me to remain focused and consider each intervention as a stand-alone process.

The agreement either with the client must include, aside from the aim of the session, a method to measure the results of the session, good signposting and appropriate feedback.

For coaches aiming to work with adults, especially those with ADHD, this book should definitely be in your library. For best results, open it and read it! The book is only a few pages long, large print, with loads of formatting. Easy to pick it up, scan through the pages and find something useful.

Find the book (external link)

Strategies to manage symptoms of ADHD: importance of good nutrition and physical activity

Beacause doing balance exercises and ensuring you get enough Omega oils in your diet is a good idea, whether you work in corporation or strive to remain active for life!

Definitely not my style of writing or indeed my preferred approach to wellbeing and management of ADHD symptoms. However, this is a very popular title and it seems plenty of people like to follow a specific strategy.

For me this is an example of distracted attention: I've listened to this as an audiobook, whilst doing other stuff. All I got was salmon and balance exercises are supposed to be a good thing in corporate America. I

The audiobook was worth it as 'useful background noise'. If the choice is between this book and a Joe Rogan podcast, well, let's hear it from the ADHD camp!

Read about the authors (external link)

From cover to cover, this book is a coaching jewel

The selection of topics and the quality of the articles, in my opinion should be a must read for any coach. It is surprisingly not very complex to understand, for an academic text.

From motivational interviewing to the importrance of supervision and reflective practise, the list of articles are all relevant for climbing, peer and work coaches.

I was sold on the book, just by reading the title of the first chapter: 'Understanding and tackling procrastination'. It only took me four years to update this website and share some of my library, that's a pretty good result for me!

Go, buy it (external link)

IN CONVERSATION… WITH MYSELF

Although we should strive to maintain a good level of physical activity, every day, for the rest of our lives, it is important to be mindful of how much, when, what, how and, more importantly, why we need to exercise to support our wellbeing. Here’s a little chat I had with myself, on my second attempt at getting back into climbing after an injury. Maybe you can relate.

Arm: Hey, I noticed you want me to climb
ADHD brain: Yeah! Isn’t this amazing?! I’ve been waiting an eternity to climb again and, look, I can hang! Feels great to move around and, besides, if anything it’s making you stronger!
Arm: Yeah, sure. Please remember we’re nearly half a century old and I was repaired less than six months ago…
ADHD Brain: But it’s so good to climb! It makes me calmer, gets rid of the fogginess, helps me shut down at night and, best of all, I’m very focused! Also, yesterday I went to see Ruby Wax and she was talking about (read more…)
Arm: I’m just going to keep messaging you to be careful
ADHD brain: Ok, fine. I’m kind of busy now, I’ll get back to you
Arm: If you ignore me now, I’m afraid I’ll have to give you pain for days.
Elvanse: Yo! What’s going on here? I was on my way to the kidneys when I heard you rambling. Listen, you’ve been there before, felt the pain and delayed your recovery by ignoring the signs. What is more important to you in the long run? Here, have some more patience.
ADHD brain: Oh, I see. Well, maybe you’re both right. I’m gonna go now, feeling quite hungry and the wall is getting too busy for my liking.
Arm: (slow clap)
Elvanse: see you tomorrow, remember you have an actual job to do!

Interoception as a form of mindfulness

Teaching Interoception could help clients connect and have a better understanding of their emotions and learn how to regulate them, on and off the climbing wall.

I add an element of Interoception to my warm up routines, allowing me and the clients to be present in the moment. It’s a form of mindfulness, without calling it meditation.

Find out more (external link)

Listening to lively music can significantly increase your grip strength